Players familiar with the grand old game of Black Jack as a back room pastime may be surprised to learn that it has become the only card game in many gambling houses and that in some, it has topped all other games in popularity. Experienced players often follow some procedure like the following:
The Play-Safe Method
Here, the player tries to chop down the dealer’s advantage by never going bust. The rule is very simple: Never draw to a total of 12 or more. In that way it’s impossible to total more than 21. Every time the dealer goes bust, the player sits back and collects.
What’s more, in Black Jack as played in the gambling casinos, the dealer can’t do a thing about it. The rules say that the dealer must draw to 16 or less so he can’t sit tight and try to beat the player at his own game the way he could if he ever played Black Jack in his own home.
With 16 as the dealer’s count, there are (theoretically) 32 out of 52 cards that will bust him. At 15, there are 28 out of 52; at 14, 24 out of 52. If his count adds to 13, there are only 20 chances out of 52 that he will go bust on the next draw, but other hazards are looming up where the dealer is concerned.
There are 12 chances out of 52 that he will draw an Ace, Two or Three, raising his score from 13 to 14, 15 or 16. In that case he still has to draw another card, with a slightly increased chance that it will bust him. This, of course, is highly helpful to the player.
On the contrary, in “playing safe,” the player is forced to sit by idly when the dealer’s first two cards total 17 or better. Also, his faint-heart policy looks bad when he stands, for example, on a total of 12 and watches the dealer, with a score of 16, draw himself a Five.
That five-spot would have given one player a neat 17. But he let the dealer take it and instead of going bust the dealer came under the line with a juicy 21. However, such heartbreaks have to happen, if you decide never to go bust yourself. The “play safe” method helps the player’s odds by eliminating that factor. That’s why players who prefer this method insist on following it to the letter.
The direct opposite of the “play safe” policy is:
The Dealer Method
This is exactly what its name implies. The player copies the exact procedure of the dealer. That is, if his cards show a total of 16 or less he says “Hit me.” The moment his score comes to 17 or above he says “Stand.”
What is the advantage? Simply that the player is meeting the dealer on his own ground, or in a sense trying to beat him at his own game, which is regarded as a dangerous procedure in ordinary life.
But in a gambling casino, a player expects to have the odds against him. He figures it this way: “The house has set the rules for the dealer because they give him the best advantage-so why shouldn’t I do the same?” So he does and meets the dealer on even terms, except on those occasions when he and the dealer both go bust, which happens comparatively seldom.
This makes Black Jack about the same as Roulette or Craps as played in the best gambling casinos. The “double bust” in Black Jack works against the player about like the Zero, or the Zero and Double Zero in Roulette. Meanwhile, the player hopes for a lucky run or utilizes some system - or does both - in his customary effort to beat the house.
Both “playing safe” and “imitating the dealer” are automatic procedures.
Good luck using either of these methods!
How To Increase Your Chances Of Winning At Roulette With This Simple Roulette Rule
Click Here For Free Online Ebook
http://www.rouletterule.org/
Here is a method by which “turf fishermen” have sought to catch the box-car winners.
System Number 1
A friend of the author’s reported that he had checked roughly 6,000 races, which is equivalent to about a year’s racing on all major tracks. He said that he found that Sweep’s fourth horse, after scratches, won about 20 per cent of the time, or about one out of five.
Sample and spot checks since then have shown that the average is slightly below 20 per cent but still good enough for a stab at long shots. Playing one-fifth of a “due” column seems the best way to handle this method.
Capital can be conserved by passing up plays in which the first four entries are low prices.
On June 2, 1955 Sweep’s fourth choice hit Canaris in the seventh at Belmont and paid $38.40. Other winners were: William Morton, seventh race at Balmoral (at Washington Park) and paying $30.80; Fiery Imp, third at Detroit, $21; Flying Teddy, fourth at Delaware Park, $11.80; Dateline, third at Thistledown, $28.80.
Winners on May 12, 1955 included: Themis, first at Churchill Downs, $23; Perfect Mister, fourth at Sportsman’s Park, $18.60; Amafox, second at Suffolk Downs, $18.
System Number 2 (The “Fourth” System)
Every now and then, a system comes along that can scarcely be explained on the basis of any of the factors Such a method is the “Fourth” system, named for a reason that will be obvious.
1. Note in past performances every horse that finished FOURTH in his last race. Pay no attention to horses that finished in positions other than fourth.
2. If using the Morning Telegraph, look at the comment at the end of the line for the race in which the horse finished fourth-his most recent race. The horse becomes a selection if this comment is favorable.
Favorable comment includes such remarks as:
a. showed good effort
b. closed willingly
c. finished strong
d. much best of rest, etc.
Pass the horse if the comment is unfavorable. Unfavorable comment includes such remarks as:
a. dull effort
b. quit
c. showed little
d. not in form, etc.
3. If using the Racing Form which makes no such comment in the past performances, then whether horse was “favorably” or “unfavorably” thought of must be deduced from the running of that race. “Favorable” would include if horse:
a. gained from stretch to finish
b. lost ground only because of the competition and not because he quit.
c. was in for higher price than he will race for today, etc.
Note-If horse lost ground between stretch and finish it does not disqualify him unless he quit, or lost much ground to the same horses nearest to him throughout the race.
Example-If he was running fourth most of the time and the same three horses were leading him most of the way, then he would not qualify if THREE other horses were ahead of him at the finish. This gives credit to a horse which tires because of pressing the pace or being on it most of the way. He may run a good race and still finish fourth by even 10 lengths.
“Unfavorable” would include:
a. a quitter. A check of several races will show whether the horse has the quitting habit.
b. a horse which never got beyond fourth place anywhere in the race although other horses were changing positions at the top.
With no comment as a guide, selections will have to be a matter of judgment. If the player, however, has the Racing Form monthly chart book he can easily look back and get a full description of the race.
Or the player can watch the result charts, pick up the horses finishing fourth, and note the comments made.
4. Since this method usually picks long shots, two horses can be played in the same race.
But if it is desired to separate contenders they might be chosen under these elimination rules:
a. Choose horse with highest speed rating
b. Horse which raced most recently
c. Horse showing a distinct drop in class
Good luck with both these systems!
Attention Punters: Get The Shocking Truth On What You Must Do To Make A Fortune At The Races — Discover The Best Horse Racing Tip Ever!
Click Here For Free Online Ebook
http://www.horseracingtip.net/
Various systems have been devised to try to beat the slot machine. One such method is the “Put and Take System.”
The “Put and Take System.” Here, the player simply puts in a specified amount and takes what he can get. It is a controlled form of play that promises a good return if the player happens to get in on a good run, as it gives him a definite stopping point.
The player starts with, say, 20 coins ($1 in nickels if playing that type of machine) and simply runs them right through, pausing to let the machine deliver after any hit, but giving no attention to what comes out - if anything! - until he has completed his first run through.
Having made his “put,” he then counts his “take.” If he has made money, he puts away the profit. Suppose, for example, he was lucky enough to hit Plums for 14, along with a 5 and two 3’s. That gives him 25 coins, so his profit is 5 coins, or 25c in terms of nickels.
Now the player puts his original 20 coins right back through hoping to take more profits which he can add to the first gain. But what if his 20 coins come out short, as they most often do?
In that case, he keeps on putting the remainder through. His 20 coins may be whittled down to 10, 5, or even 3, but still a big hit like the Bells (for 18 coins) will put him right back in the running, with maybe a few extra coins for his own private Jackpot.
Never, at any time, does the player use any of his profit. He simply risks his original investment, granting the machine a take of 20 coins and hoping that his own take will more than balance it.
Three things can happen: (1) Either the player will lose his risk money by going short on the first run through and failing to regain his original mark on further plays; (2) He will come out with less than he started, the coins he managed to put away while running through his original quota; (3) He will show an actual profit, if he managed to build up more than his original 20 coins before losing them.
Examples: (1) Player puts 20, takes 15; Puts 15, takes 5; Puts 5, takes 13; Puts 13, takes 3; Puts 3, takes 0.
(2) Player puts 20, takes 16; Puts 16, takes 24, keeps 4; Puts 20, takes 28, keeps 8; Puts 20, takes 8; Puts 8, takes 0. Original 20; kept 12. Lost 8.
(3) Player puts 20, takes 32, keeps 12; Puts 20, takes 17;
Puts 17, takes 30, keeps 10; Puts 20, takes 24, keeps 4; Puts 20, takes 8; Puts 8, takes 12; Puts 12, takes 0. Original 20; kept 26. Gained 6.
Variations of “Put and Take”
There is a modifications of this system: it is to risk the profit instead of the original amount. If the player starts with 20 and comes out with 28, he keeps the 20 and plays the 8. Should he build the 8 to 12, he would keep the 8 and play the 4. That is, the moment he gets ahead he uses the machine’s money, not his own. So he can’t lose.
The question is: Can he win? Not very much if he only has a few coins to run through each time, as they can be so easily wiped out. If he puts in 12 and comes out with 13, he would only have 1 to play; while if he put 12 and took 11, he could run the whole lot through.
Once the risk fund is gone, it is unwise to repeat the Put and Take system with the same machine on the same occasion. That is, the player should return to the machine only after someone else has played it. He can, of course, try the Put and Take with another machine if one happens to be available.
Good luck with these attempts to beat the slot machine!
How To Increase Your Chances Of Winning At Roulette With This Simple Roulette Rule
Click Here For Free Online Ebook
http://www.rouletterule.org/
There are various games of chance played with dice. Only one or two of these are still played in gambling houses - Craps being the big dice game these days. But you might want to play this game with the fellows, or it may come back to the gambling halls.
CHUCK-LUCK
Chuck-Luck or Bird Cage used to be a favorite in the old western gambling halls. And it rated tops in the modern casinos until Craps came into being. However, it’s still played occasionally in the bigger houses.
Chuck-Luck is a simple game. Three one-inch dice are tumbled over and over in a cage until they come to rest face up. Before each turn of the cage, bets are placed on a layout divided into 6 squares and numbered 1 through 6. The house pays various odds on bets corresponding to those shown on the dice.
An example, if a dollar is bet on each of six numbers (and the dice come up 1, 4 and 6), the house pays out three dollars to the winners and collects three dollars from those betting on 2, 3 and 5. But the house couldn’t make any money if the betting stayed to this level. So it doesn’t.
On doubles and triples, the house pays double and triple. A tempting bet for the customer. But the odds are 216 to 199 in favor of the house, or about 7.9%.
PRINCIPAL BETS IN CHUCK-LUCK
On triples, a bet that the throw will be any triple, such 3-3-3 or 5-5-5, the house pays 30 to 1. But the actual odds are 35 to 1. You can also “call your triple” and if it comes up, the house pays 180 to 1. Great odds? Not when you consider the correct odds or chances of making it. They are 215 to 1.
For a particular total, from 4 to 17, the house pays less than the correct odds. The house advantage in each case ranges from 10% to 20%.
The house pays even money on High (total 11 to 17), Low (total 4 to 10), Odd and Even numbers. But the house wins whenever a triple shows in the High and Low Bets.
If you want to set up a “friendly game” at home you can buy all the equipment. A cage, highly polished, runs around $100. A cloth layout, about $15. And a set of three dice, about $10.
To make the game “unfriendly” the rest of the equipment can be had for a price. A magnet to hook up under the cage, plus batteries, wires and operator’s switch cost between $75 and $100. And three magnetic dice, about $50. Rather expensive (but if you’re that kind of a guy), the equipment pays for itself. For instance, 15 loses if 5-5-5 comes up, and 9 loses if 3-3-3 comes up. Still, these bets are the best for the player. The correct odds are only 111 to 105 against him.
This is a great game, so enjoy it whenever you have the opportunity. Good luck!
Discover The Secrets Of The Best Crap Strategy Players In The World!
Click Here For Free Online Ebook
As soon as slot machines attained their place in the American scene, people began devising ways to beat them; some fair, but mostly foul. The feeling was that the machines themselves were illegal; therefore, no action would be taken against persons who tried to rob them.
It was possible to tilt some nickel machines so that they would take pennies. This meant that the player only put up 20 per cent of the expected amount, giving him a chance of doubling his money even if the payoff was only on a 40 per cent basis.
Another gimmick was a blower, a rubber tube that could be fitted over the slot and air blown through, giving exactly the same pressure to the mechanism as a nickel falling through. Other gyps used a wire that they pushed up into the payoff pocket and twisted whenever the machine delivered, causing a lot of extra coins to drop through.
Players who practiced pulling the lever fast or slow, hoping to control the spin of the wheels, discovered that if an interior spring were broken, the handle could be retained at an “in-between” point, making it possible to spin the wheels time after time without inserting additional coins. The spring could be broken by feeding coins and yanking the handle rapidly and repeatedly until the coins jammed.
For $35 a player could buy a twenty-five pound magnetic device, complete with dry-cell batteries. He looked rather bulky when equipped with this contrivance, but he was wired for business in the backroom. All he had to do was lean against the slot machine and the magnet would exert control on ratchets and wheels while they were in action.
The biggest claim for the magnetic contraption was that it could pull a lever that would drop the Jackpot on almost any play. But purchasers of the outfit declared it did not fulfill its claims. Either it wasn’t powerful enough or the slot machine manufacturers soon found ways to counteract it.
Ready-Gaffed Machines
The slot machine industry is said to have put the quietus on the biggest swindle of all, in which more than $1,000,000 was reportedly grossed through a gyp scheme never suspected by the local operators of machines, the storekeepers who represented the lower levels of the industry.
The gyp was this: As the slot machine craze grew, year by year, it became apparent that it was largely a “hit and run” operation. Wherever the machines infiltrated, they became too much of a good thing, coming into the pincer grip of reformers and racketeers, one group demanding their abolition, the other a slice of the “take.” The obvious answer was to flood an area with machines, clean up fast and go elsewhere. As a result, cut-rate machines were popular with operators.
One wild-cat manufacturer made this a specialty, always offering an overstock of cheaper models at an introductory price. The machines were being shipped “ready-gaffed” so that a trick pull of the handle, generally a short, double jerk, would bring a payoff through the money chute.
Stooges planted in towns where these machines were prevalent, cleaned them out with systematic rapidity, while the local operators wondered what had happened to the big profits the slots were supposed to bring. What made this gyp all the stronger was that it could be worked openly. A few strangers, dropping in occasionally, apparently were lucky; that was all.
As the slot machine business took on monopolistic trends, the gyp manufacturers were crowded out. But for years, a lot of wild-cat machines were around - and still may be. Whenever the law clamps down on slots in a given area, squads of One-armed Bandits are promptly camphor-balled and tucked away for future use. All sorts of crazy models may crop up whenever an old territory is reopened.
That’s why old time players like to jockey the handles of obsolete machines. They’ve heard that certain styles pay off if you find the right pull, whether it’s a quick tug, a slow squeeze, or a double action.
But let’s be honest, it is virtually impossible to cheat a slot machine.
How To Increase Your Chances Of Winning At Roulette With This Simple Roulette Rule
Click here for FREE online Ebook